CLUTCH, FLYWHEEL & HYDRAULICS REPLACE

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Don't forget to clean this end of the ground cable! Wink

The LONG SHAFT inside the trans will see it as a ANTENNA!! Shocked

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This was KO's release fork. See what I mean about "other people's work"? Poor KO! No sign of new lube......destroyed the RETAINING CLIP (missing) Rolling Eyes

Replacing the clutch assembly.....without ANY ATTENTION TO DETAIL =
DO IT AGAIN! Laughing

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

When REBUILDING/REPLACING the slave, if you clamp off the hose, all the fluid won't drain out of the entire system.

"But I want to replace all the fluid". Drain away.

But it's easier to use the NEW FLUID to PUSH OUT the old fluid and not get a lot of air in the system. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

OK, Clutch master cylinder REBUILD/REPLACE.
A NEW NABCO/Mitsu (reboxed by Carquest......made in JAPAN!) retails for $154.13 an only stocked by Carquest REGIONAL WAREHOSES, and myself....if your lucky. Laughing

Remove the 3 bolts marked in red.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Unhook the electrical "Low Level Indicator" lead from the brake reservoir and flip it over to expose the CLUTCH MASTER.

NOTE: Have someone stroke the pedal while you watch the nipple on the clutch master cylinder! If you see air bubbles in the nipple, you definately have air in the master. Shocked

TIP: Jacking-up the LEFT SIDE of the car.....air bubbles will WANT to exit out of the NIPPLE! Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Place a *WET* towel under the clutch master cylinder to collect the fluid that will drip out when you remove the line.
If not...that fluid will EAT AWAY YOUR PAINT VERY FAST! Shocked

10mm flare-nut wrench, please.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Under the dash...remove the cotter pin from the adjustment rod.
Well...I guess someone was in here before. Sad

Remove the washer and clevis pin) .

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove the red nut.
The upper nut is in the engine bay.
There is a bracket attached to this stud. Be careful you don't drop it when you remove the upper nut. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

A deep-well 12mm socket works pretty good here.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

A NEW NABCO/Mitsu (reboxed by Carquest......made in JAPAN!) retails for $154.13 and only stocked by Carquest REGIONAL WAREHOSES, and myself....if you're lucky. :lol

Mitsu P/N MB012099 w/adjustment rod
Auto Boner/Brakeware P/N 12071 w/adjustment rod. (pure junk, on-da-shelf) Laughing

Carquest/Nabco reboxed P/N E105910 w/adjustment rod.
PQ's NABCO rebuild master cylinder w/new Mitsu adjustment rod.

Auto Zone....WRONG NIPPLE....CHEAP RUBBER PARTS.....an get this,
I was in Kentucky a few weeks ago for a tour of the Ali. Cast parts.
Because of FAILURES of cheap assed cast Ali. parts of GM transmission cases etc........(pissed off customers) Ali CASTINGS are TESTED for internal fluid leaks due to PORISITY.

This is NOT gonna happen in TAIWAN Ali CASTING PLANTS! Rolling Eyes

"I just put in a new Auto Zone unit and it won't build/hold PRESSURE and the air bubbles keep coming back.....what am I doing wrong?" Laughing

You didn't want to listen to SOUND ADVICE. Rolling Eyes

I've taken another set of pics today.....Aug.16/07 Differant manufactor.......Auto Zone is gonna buy the CHEAPEST PART THEY CAN.......=$$$ PROFIT! Evil or Very Mad

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

CLUTCH PEDAL Up-stop switch 'bumper'.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

READ IT...and UNDERSTAND IT!

NOPE! a 1/2" of pedal, free-play is WAYYYYY, TO MUCH! Rolling Eyes

.12" MAX= less than 1/8"! (.125=1/8")

IF YOU THINK YOU UNDERSTAND GEOMETRY.........RE-READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Laughing

Up-stop switch. This is what is used to adjust the TRAVEL LENGHT of the clutch pedal. Backing off the switch increases the pedals travel. The clutch pedal NEEDS at least 6-3/4" of travel to DISENGAGE the clutch. The "FREE-PLAY" (which is just the slack in the clevis pin) should be .2-.5" and you should shoot for the .2" buy adjusting the adjustment rod.

Figure your carpet is 3/4" thick......if you show 6" of pedal travel (to the carpet).....inreality you only have 5 1/4" of travel.......WHICH IS NOT ENOUGH TO RELEASE A CLUTCH! Rolling Eyes

Sooooo, BACK-OFF THE UP-STOP SWITCH! Wink

AFTER......you get the TRAVEL you need......NOW adjust the FREE-PLAY (measure at the lower portion of the pedal) to be .2"-.5" OR........LESS......but NOT ZERO! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

NOTE the ELONGATED HOLE in the clutch adjustment rod! Guys....you NEED to replace this with a GENUINE MITSU PART or a PQ part! Rolling Eyes

"Those ACT clutches are too hard to push the pedal down" Rolling Eyes

This is a MAJOR lubrication point, guys. So are the pedal bushings......and the spring. 18 year old GREASE? NOT!!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Parts numbers 8 & 9......those nylon bushings are worn bad enough to allow the PEDAL to walk SIDEWAYS! Rolling Eyes

You see that sliver, shiney part on the edge of the pedal? Shocked

It'll also be worn the same 180* at the other end. Rolling Eyes

Bushings MB058634, Spacer MB151139

NOBODY......ever re-greased this part! Laughing

Could it be..........there's four times the FRICTION there should be here? This clevis pin is usually worn out and badly grooved.

You'll run out of adjustment on the adjustment rod before you get the free-play down to .2"

Replace with MF473490. It's a cheap part but a new adjustment rod and a new clevis pin will make a world of differance in the way your clutch works. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This is the clucth master RESERVOIR. It's YOUR JOB to flush this thing out with HOT, SOAPY WATER.......RINSE PLEASE! Laughing

You can replace the MASTER CYLINDER with a new MB012099 or replace it with a PQ's REBUILD....shipped BENCH BLED already. Wink

Most new & rebuilds clutch masters come with a new adjustment rod, BUT IF IT'S NOT A 'BRAND-NAME',= WASTE OF TIME, EFFORT & $$!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

"BENCH-BLEEDING".....makes bleeding a MC very easy and fast.!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Install the RIGHT adapter.....place the hose at the BOTTOM of the reservoir.....fill with DOT 3.......

Cont. on page 5. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The STOP RING fixes the piston in a RELAXED POSITION......your ADJUSTMENT ROD's JOB is to CLOSE the GAP between the PISTION & the PEDAL......NOTHING MORE...NOTHING LESS!

the words "FREE-PLAY" means......DO NOT FORCE THE PISTON BEYOUND THE FIXED POSITION BY OVER LENGHTENING THE ADJUSTMENT ROD!

IT's job is NOT to prevent the TOB from coming into contact with the pressure plate fingers!! THAT......would be an OLD SCHOOL THOUGHT!! Rolling Eyes

The TOB is in FULL-TIME CONTACT with the PP FINGERS....at least IT SHOULD BE! Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Start STROKING your adjustment rod.....you'll see air bubbles being pumped out. If you look closely....even if all air has left the hose....make sure you don't see AIR BUBBLES trapped in this area.

This is how you can SPOT that AIR is in the MC.....if you're not SURE.....where the problem is. Wink

Make SURE the adapter is SNUG.....so air can't sneak by the threads......too.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

OK......let's say you are AIR-BUBBLE FREE! You remove the adapter.....guess what? you allowed a SMALL AMOUNT OF AIR TO ENTER! Shocked

That's OK.....NORMAL for "BENCH-BLEEDING".

You.......plug the opening with a rubber cap/tape.......now you pushed in that small amount of AIR into the piston chamber. This PREVENTS excess loss of fluid while you bolt this sucker down! Wink

That's cool........once you INSTALL the MC & ATTACH the steel line.....IT NOW (the nut) BECOMES A BLEEDER to bleed out that small amount of air!

That requires a HELPER to pump your clutch pedal (3 strokes) Rolling Eyes

.....held firm.......AND NEVER LIFT ON THAT PEDAL UNTIL YOU CLOSE THAT NUT! and DO NOT over-tighten that FRICKING NUT!

If you FAIL to pass along the instructions to the "pumper".......you let go of that pedal.....YOU JUST SUCKED AIR RIGHT BACK IN! Rolling Eyes

Andddddd........THOSE STROKES NEED TO BE COMPLETE STROKES cause there is an INTERNAL-ONE-WAY-VALVE....sooooo, NO PRE-LOADING OF THE PISTON ASSEMBLY. This can also happen from TOO MUCH LENGHT OF THE ADJUSTMENT ROD!!! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Place the VENT-HOLE at 6 o'clock! Wink

IF...it is wet, w/clutch fluid, than the rear seal is leaking!