ABS & A/C REMOVAL & WEIGHT REDUCTION

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

Guys, your Starquest weighed 3,107 pounds! Shocked

Your car is a PIG!
You CAN remove several hundred POUNDS from your PIG!

Indications that a MC REAR SEAL is dripping onto the STEERING
COUPLER/DAMPNER (under the rubber boot) will DESTROY the dampner
if this is NOT CORRECTED in due time! Shocked

= SLOPPY STEERING!

There are a couple of differant ways to re-route the steel line or simply replace the entire line with a new steel line or Oscar's steel braided hose.

I'll show you how to cut the exsisiting line, re-flare it and route it back to the proportioning valve first. I'll do first in a vise so I can take better pictures. Wink

But if you practice on the used lines that you will remove........you can flare like a pro in no time.

You can also buy a 30" section of METRIC, steel brake hose and bend one from scratch....no flaring required! Napa, Pecker-Boys, Auto Boners, etc!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

TSBs are there to HELP......Starquest had a LEAKING LID!
Replacement P/Ns will rescue your ass. Wink

If you still have a BLACK CAP...then you DID NOT UPGRADE YOUR CAP!
The replacement one is WHITE! But replace the bladder too! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

The ABS modulator is the large round container on the passanger side next to the firewall. It has an IN LINE and a OUT LINE. (steel) So you could say the modulator is just in a loop. All you need to do is remove it from the loop.

Place a clamp on the rear rubber hose above the the master cylinder to stop the fluid from dripping out. The OUT LINE is attached to the valve/union you see in the lower part of the pic.

Remove the entire steel line and the modulator. Next, take the IN LINE and gently reshape it and shorten it, then flare it (it's a metric size). Cut it long enough to form an S like in the pic and attach it to the valve/union where you removed the other line from.

Remove clamp. Bleed the rear brakes FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER using the out steel line like a bleeder.

Practice flaring the steel line you removed before flaring the line that will remain in the car. Always make the steel line long enough to re-flare should you make a poor flare and it leaks. It's very important that you make a PERFECT CHAMFER with a file at about 45 degrees around the tip of the steel line. This is where most guys screw up and have a leak. Follow the directions that come with the flaring kit to the letter.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note the two red arrows indicating the in line and the out line. We'll completely remove the out line........and re-route the in line back to where you unhooked the out, the valve in the first pic.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This is the out line from the modulator. Again, we'll remove this line and replace it with the in line from the modulator.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This is what it will look like completed. Looks factory....don't it?

Obviously, this much easier to do with the engine removed. Don't have plans on removing the engine? Buy Oscar's SS hose or build your own from a straight peice of METRIC steel brake hose. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

These plastic PINCH-CLAMPS are like $6 for TWO! Rolling Eyes

They come-in REAL HANDY! Wink

This is gonna STOP dumping
all the old brake fluid...and having it fill with AIR!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

You know the deal.....remove the red bolts.....and the red clamp on the right.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove the red CLAMP bolt and unhook the harness.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Rotate the modulator counter-clockwise a few degress so the vacuum line has clearance.....and pull the modulator straight up.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona