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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 1:01 pm |
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If you take apart a REBUILT 2.6 turbo engines frequently (as I have)....it's a DISCOVERY PROCESS to figured out what went WRONG!
Do *I* know-it-all?
Hardly......but I DO know a BUNCH!
ID where the #1 plug wire is.
Mark things so RE-INDEXING is a CAKE WALK!
Yes....the helicut gears allow indexs to SHIFT upon remove/install.
We want you to be at TDC (top dead center) on the #1 COMPRESSION STROKE.
[color=red]
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:04 pm; edited 15 times in total |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:24 pm |
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As indicated....this is CRANK, TDC. BUT...if the cam gear DOWEL PIN is not very close to 12 o'clock....then it's on the EXHAUST TDC.
Place the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the COMPRESSION stroke. You will know you are on the compression stroke if the cam dowel pin is at the NEARLY 12 o'clock position.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:25 pm |
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Is your dampner and t-cover off of your engine?
PUT THE KEYWAY AT EXACTLY 3 o'clock to have the CRANK at TDC!
Understand this: you should have exactly, 20 link seperation!
(or use the "marked links")
If the cam dowel pin is not bout 11:59...USE CHANNEL LOCKS to
rotate your cam!
The 2.6 is a "non-interferance engine" (you can't bend your valves
is what that means, duh!)
The KEYWAY in the crank will be EXACTLY 3 o'clock at TDC.
There is a TIMING MARK on the GEAR located just below 3 o'clock. This is where you line up the lower MARKED LINK.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:25 pm |
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Yes....you CAN make this engine JUMP outta proper cam timing....ACCIDENTLY! There is a WARNING placed in the factory manual about this too.
EXAMPLE: You park your 5 speed car on a hill, front-end up.....in gear, and the PARKING BRAKE fails to hold your car SOLID, if the car lurks BACKWARDS...you just FORCED the ENGINE in a REVERSE DIRECTION TOO! The T-chain tensioner RELAXES......."JUMP" of the T-chain. gears 1 thru 5...but not if it's already in REVERSE.
The upper marked link should be aligned with the timing mark on the cam gear, located just below 3 o'clock. This INDEXES your CAM to be at TDC COMPESSION STROKE!
Note the dowel pin is at 12 o'clock. Once the engine is rotated, these timing marks will not line up again for MANY revolutions, so don't let that throw you.
Rotating the engine in a reverse fashion (using the CRANK to turn the motor) can cause the chain to jump.
HOWEVER, you can rotate the motor in reverse if you turn the CAM BOLT. This will keep tension on the chain so the chain can't jump. There is a mod to prevent this from ever happening again.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:25 pm |
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This is an adjustable cam gear. Note the three differant dowel pin holes.
On the left is standard/OEM TDC CAM timing, center hole is 2.5* CAM advanced and the 3rd hole is 3.5* CAM advanced.
Soooo, 2.5* cam = 5* at the crank. 3.5* cam = 7* at the crank.
The edge of the gears are provided with there own TIMING MARKS. Kinda IDIOT PROOF!
We are reffering to CAM TIMING, not ignition timing
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:26 pm |
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A DISASTER...in the making! You CAN NOT removes more that .008" from the cylinder head! Not only would that RETARD your cam timing, but the chain would now be too loose! Yes...they did make a SHIM to correct this OVER-MACHINED head. They became OBSOLETE and you should just buy a NEW head in the first place.
VIRGIN HEAD MEASUREMENT ABOVE.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:26 pm |
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Carquest, Checker, Kragen, Shucks and Napa sell:
"I had a broken T-chain" These are REAL DOUBLE-ROLLER CHAINS!
Odds of a BROKEN LINK suggest that a FOREIGN OBJECT was cycled threw a T-chain and a sprocket.....like using a screwdriver, etc. If you BENT a PIN, sooner or later.....it WILL BREAK!
DOUBLE CAUTION: there IS a lock washer behind the "B" balance shaft guide that fall into harms way! See page 3 for more info!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:26 pm |
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If the SILENT SHAFTS have been removed,
the TOP RIGHT BOLT in this pic will need to be supplied
by yourself.
This is where special bolt "A" was installed from the factory.
See page 3 for more info.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:26 pm |
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6mm x 18mm cam dowel pin (can be a lil' longer)
No other sizes will work and be RELIABLE!
Don't take a chance Use a new one.
Mitsu MD021219 $1
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:27 pm |
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Place the new cam dowel pin .280".......toward the cam.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:27 pm |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:27 pm |
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Pushing-back the chain tensioner so you
can install the CAM GEAR!
This 'SLEEVE' can travel out of it's bore too far.
This will make the chain too short so you can't start the bolt that holds the cam gear on.
A long screw driver can be inserted thru the head to push the tensioner back......should it be allowed to travel too far.
Note how much of the tensioner sleeve is exposed. That's because this CYLINDER HEAD WAS MACHINED WAY TOO MUCH!
The FSM MAXIMUM IS ONLY .008"!
A new chain and sprockets with TWO RUBBER WASHERS ON IT, will only have about .030 of exposed sleeve.
Restricting this TENSIONER TRAVEL (into the oil pump) will prevent the T-chain from jumping outta CAM time if you REVERSE the engine rotation. I GATHER......that is why Mitsu UP-GRADED the TENSONER SPRING thru the TSB posted above.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:28 pm |
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Recommend you mark your index marks so you can SEE
what you are doing!
You're killin me! Stuck in the bore.....you bent the "SLEEVE" too...and look at that BENT spring & dampner And that's a O-ring....not a Mitsu "rubber sheet"
Mitsu MD084945 "DAMPNER" $4 (long skinny part) .....a MUST HAVE.
Appears to have begun use sometime in 85......but was STILL a HEADACHE until the 1990 TSB was issued.
This ONLY helps control COIL-BINDING...IT IS NOT A "STOPPER" for the SLEEVE!
DO NOT DOUBLE RUBBER SHEET UNLESS YOUR HEAD IS MACHINED IN EXCESS!!!
Mitsu MD021242 "SHEETS, rubber" $2
Some timing sets come with ONE of these parts and some have NONE! But you'll NEED to have at least ONE NEW ONE
RED HOT OIL TURBO RETURN IS DUMPED RIGHT ON IT
Old ones get hard as a cracker and WILL COMPRESS. "My car did not have one." Yes it did, it probably broke and fell into the oil pan. Page 9-31 in the 88 Starion service manual.
Once you turn off your engine, the oil pressure bleeds off. The spring on the tensioner/sleeve is not strong enough to keep the tensioner TIGHT while waiting for oil pressure to come back up. Hence.....you hear noises coming from the timing cover as the chain RATTLES when you first start your engine.
Two rubber sheets/washers keeps the sleeve from RELAXING nearly as far. With new timing components, and two rubber sheets........there is LITTLE ROOM FOR THE TENSIONER TO RELAX.
It will ALSO....prevent the T-chain from JUMPING...causing the cam timing to change
"I've never noticed it had one." That's why this manual exsist.
Now...the GERMANS had a lil' better idea.
Yes...it is spring loaded....
Yes...it needs OIL PRESSURE for the tensioner...
But...IT HAS A RATCHET SO IT CAN'T BE FORCED REWARD!
Now...DOUBLE RUBBER SHEETING *IS* THE SOLUTION ON A MITSU
2.6L ENGINE...ESPECIALLY WHEN A YOUTH IS BEHIND DA WHEEL!!
True...THE BUILT-IN PLASTIC CHAIN TENSIONER HAS A LIFE...this one broke in-half....and that chain failure locked-up the crankshaft, suggesting that, that engine was BLOWN. *HE*...was WRONG TOOOO!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:28 pm |
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Some T-chains..... are NOT RELIABLE and are frequenty NOT INDEXED CORRECTLY! USA, JAPAN...TAKE MY MONEY
Read the CHAIN....NOT THE BOX
Yep...if you use a bolt that is TOO LONG on the oil pump.... brand new parts turn to HELL-ina-HANDBAG
EXAMPLE: Removed the OIL PUMP PHILLIP SCREW...and replaced with a HEX HEAD SCREW, that was ONE THREAD LONGER!
Normal wear on the left......extreme wear on the right.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:28 pm |
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These bolts are SPECIAL! Their HARDNESS & LENGHT come into play.
Often found SNAPPED OFF Loctite= DISASTER!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:29 pm |
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I know.....you only have TWO HANDS. Shelby suggested this is a THIRD HAND.
Mitsu Oil pump gasket MD060521
Mitsu Oil pump O-ring MD068388 yes...it's a special O-ring.
Mitsu Oil pump MD069800 net $150 retail $200
No "HV" pump exsist....Sealed Power are REBOXED pumps $300+
Fel-pro supplies gaskets/o-rings it in a "conversion kit"...orange in color. SILICONE!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:29 pm |
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Because OIL PRESSURE controls the PRESSURE on the TENSIONER.....and the RIGHT OP GASKET has a function......
N/A OP/gasket on the left.......Turbocharged OP/gasket on the right.
......so does OBSTRUCTIONS/CONTAMINATION in your oil supply.....
NOTE: the words "OPEN CENTER" & "RESTRICTED CENTER" when refferd to your OP gasket.
.....and RE-GROUND CAMS are NORTORIOUS for contamination......
(This tiny lil hole squirts oil right on the T-chain & crank sprocket )
.....and so does SHIMING of the OP RELEASE VALVE (to gain too much PSI)
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:44 pm |
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No balance shaft chain damage on this cover........
Note how the timing cover was cast at an angle here for balance shaft chain clearance. If the balance shaft chain ("silent shaft" chain) was never tighten (as the FSM says it should be) the chain will WHIP...and contact the timing cover!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:44 pm |
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.....but this one did see some damage!
"What's that noise?" Once the chain and guides wear, the chain can make contact with the timing cover.
Also...FAILURE TO USE RUBBER SHEETS & DAMPNERS ALLOW THE T-CHAIN TO WHIP LIKE A SNAKE
YOU DO NOT WANT TINY METALIC FOREIGN OBJECTS PUMPED THRU YOUR ENGINE
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:45 pm |
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It's the "boss" for this bolt.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:45 pm |
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The "B" hole: On a HOT/COLD engine...it provides the coolant RE-DIRECTED to cross-over your cylinder head A PRIORITY
"Can coolant leak internally into the crankcase?" YOU BET! Coolant leaves the water pump, goes thru the timing cover and into the block at this point.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:46 pm |
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Don't get stupid with the silicone or you'll plug the top hole ........it's the coolant BY-PASS HIGH PRESSURE HOLE to direct coolant into your HEAD..and thru your intake manifold.
This INCLUDES ANY HOLE that coolant passes thru it. A FINGER SMIR of silicone is all it takes to seal it up.
"A" Hole: provides a slower velocity......higher volume of coolant directed over your CYLINDERS
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:46 pm |
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CORRECTION: LEFT SIDE, SECOND FROM THE BOTTOM.
74mm with a lock washer for the P/S BRACKET.
If you remove your A/C compressor and mount, you'll need to
change the upper three bolts to 70mm long.
They are 8mm x 1.25 pitch. Hit the bone yard and find the 2.6s.
Removes the 20lbs A/C compressor bracket!
The OBSOLETE MB123891 non A/C duct, replaces the A/C evaporator & the entire housing.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:47 pm |
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BOLT LENGHTS....with A/C.
CORRECTION: LEFT SIDE, SECOND FROM THE BOTTOM. 74mm with a lock washer for the P/S BRACKET
This is lenght of the bolts with A/C.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1640
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:48 pm |
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WHAT....are you seeing here?
DIFFERENT LENGHTS of t-chain guides!
The cure: Buying *PREMIUM* t-chain parts that *I* recommend!
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