DRIVESHAFT REBUILD- U-JOINT REPLACE

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Well, this is a typical stock drive shaft with the factory U joints. Note: it's kinda nasty so the first thing we do is clean it. I'm gonna cheat and use the bench grinder with a wire wheel to start with. A look at the "Tool Time" post shows a 22 caliber copper bore brush. This will get down around the caps to clean them BEFORE you attempt to take it apart. The RAT-TAIL file is actually a chain-saw file, 5/32. If you fail to clean it correctly, you will bend the YOKES when you strike it with a hammer. That's BAD. The tools are what I anticipated I would need.........as it turns out I needed 3 more tools. Hey..............the last guy who was perfect had holes in his hands.

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Take the MILL file and mark the SHAFT and the COMPANION FLANGE.......yellow crayon marks. Also mark the SLIP YOKE. This will PERMANTLY MARK THE TWO PARTS. ALSO.........do this before you remove it from the car to index the shaft to the REAR END

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Note the large yellow mark ON THE WELD. This is a striking point. No, we don't beat the crap out of it. Light blows should do just fine. The snap rings were rusty and did not want to release. The center punch convinced them to break free and then the snap -ring pliers did there job. The WD-40 helps here. It also helps lube the cap that we are about to remove.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Sorry about the focus. LAY.......the companion flange ON a vise. DON'T pinch it. This will SUPPORT the companion flange and allow the SHAFT to move DOWNWARD driving the CAP UPWARD when you strike the YELLOW MARK with a hammer. Use lighter taps with the hammer. If the cap is cleaned and lubed with WD-40.......the cap should ease UPWARD. Note what is RESTING on the VISE.

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A few taps with the mallet (ON THE YELLOW PAINT ONLY)........."there she blows"..........no it won't come ALL the way out.........yet. It has BOOGERS NOW. Give it another squirt of WD-40 on both sides of the cap. Striking the yoke around the C clip will close up the groove. DON'T DO THAT! Striking the SHAFT will BEND the shaft (put a dent in it) Now the shaft is no longer TRUE. DON'T DO THAT.

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It's nearly out and you can't drive it any further by tapping the WELD.....sorry. The Channel-locks will let you TWIST it out from here.

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Top pic. This BOOGER is NORMAL from the tapping with the hammer. BUT IT MUST BE REMOVED..............with the RAT-TAIL FILE. There should be 4 BOOGERS. Sometimes you can barley seem them. Use your fingers and FEEL FOR THEM.

Bottom pic. Then DRESS it with the Crocuss cloth. This will remove any imperfections so reassembly will go SMOOTH. The distance between the "EARS" on both parts is CRITICAL. You can bend them out of proper ALIGNMENT if...........the caps aren't clean ( which makes you use too much HAMMER) or you don't remove the BOOGERS.......which again.........makes you use too much HAMMER.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note how CLEAN you want the CAPS. This is so they SLIDE out nice and easy. If they are rusty or gummed up with old grease............you will need to strike the hammer HARDER...........and THAT BENDS THE EARS THROWING YOUR ALIGNMENT OF THE PARTS OFF. VIBRATION!!!!

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Use a 1" socket. Center it over the cap. Now strike the socket with the hammer. The cap will come out just like it did from the shaft. Again..........note what REST on the vise.

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Note the before and after pics of how clean you want the cap holders and the groove where the snap-ring goes. The pic tool will help clean the snap-ring groove.

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A little cleaning solvent, a few swipes with the RAT-TAIL as usual, followed by the sand paper.

I can think of 2 other ways to do this without a vise. I'll spin the shaft around and do the other end without a vise. [/img]

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

If you don't have a vise, this method works fine too. Here are some tips. Place your LEFT knee on the drive shaft to stabilize it. Use a 1" socket that has a THICK WALL or LARGER. This is to keep the BLOW AWAY FROM THE SNAP-RING GROOVE.........so you don't CRUSH IT. Reposition the wood if they jump out of place AS YOU GO!

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Remember, strike only the weld. Same reaction!

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Driving the caps in a straight line helps, hence the block at the rear. Place your left knee about where the numbers are on the shaft. This will keep the shaft from bouncing.

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This is why you need FIVE- 2X4s............you need the height.

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"Something is making a CREAKING NOISE"! You're looking at it. This is usually the FRONT U joint. Note on the LEFT SIDE of the cross. That's a hardend surface and it is TRASHED. NO.................you can't FEEL this with the shaft still in the car. But you will the minute you remove the shaft from the car.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

A few more minutes with the wire wheel, a orbital sander with 60 grit worn down as you go........ and then wipe it down with lacquer thinner a couple times, and the other parts................I prime it, but to each his own.

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The Carquest joint (1-1516) is SPICER 5-1516 $15.90 Napa is GMB $21.59. Spicer also makes Neapco. Note the caps. Cap on left..........out of the box (not much grease).........cap on right, I filled with grease......ready to install. Filling the cap with grease HOLDS THE NEEDLES IN. VERY IMPORTANT! Also note warning on the BAG.

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When you drive out the old caps........you will also leave a RIM of flashing. This FLASHING can now get caught up when you try to install the new cap. Sand the opening to remove the FLASHING..........8 openings to sand.

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Note the FLASHING is gone and so is the PAINT. Carb cleaner will remove the over-spray. Now take your PINKY FINGER and smear some grease in the openings.

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The caps should START to slip in pretty easily. You can GENTLY tap them in a little with a hammer..........................BECAUSE YOU PACKED THEM FULL OF GREASE.....and the grease keeps the needles in place. The C clamp can push them in ALMOST all the way. Move the cross back and forth to ALIGN ALL 3 PARTS.

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The cross, at this point should turn pretty freely.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Alternative means with a vise to BEGIN installation of a cap. Note the ZERK faces drivesaft.

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Driving the cap home. Industrial sockets are hardend. They won't tend to distort but regular sockets work too. Use the largest O.D. that will fit into the hole.

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Note: Your snap rings have a smooth side and a flat side. Place the flat side against the caps.
Note the cap is slightly sub-surfaced. That's ok..........for now.

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This is how to drive the cap back UP against the snap ring. NOTE...........I used the OLD CAPS to do this. Yes, you can do this on the blocks of wood as well. This is HOW you take the pressure of the caps off the cross which makes the joint feel STIFF. Remember..........ONLY STRIKE THE WELD!!

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Now look at another new snap ring that you have not installed yet. Compare how thick the snap ring is to the one installed. As you can clearly tell..........this snap ring is ALL THE WAY IN.

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Now you can install the SLIP YOKE (front) or the COMPANION FLANGE (rear). Use the same methods. The tape will help protect the SLIP YOKE. Under the tape are two important surfaces. The SEAL service and the BEARING surface. This yoke was perfect. Also............INSIDE the SLIP YOKE are TEETH that can wear out. Not very common.......but INSPECT IT.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Notice the C clamp is on the large size and the thread count is about medium. It also has larger PUCS that are FLAT. Sometimes the caps will just push in with your fingers like some of these did. It's all about CLEAN and ALIGNMENT of the parts.

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Now altough it is not pictured EVERYTIME, in previous pics you saw how to center the joints so they don't BIND. If after you have centerd the joints and you still have a SMALL AMOUNT of binding...........don't panic. When spin your car up to 100 mph the joint will tend to center itself. But if it feels like there is BROKEN GLASS IN THERE.........you probably knocked out a needle bearing. Take it back apart.

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Last cap......driven in with the socket and a trip back to the vice (or wood blocks) to center the joint. Now the REAR joint was slippery as a...........YOU KNOW WHAT. However the yoke after several strikes with the mallet.........was a little on the stiff side. A few miles on the car will loosen it up.

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OH MY GOD! I built a RED DRIVESHAFT! Well, it photos better!.................."And that's all she wrote" Shelby, GSX.......I tried to incorperate some of your ideas as well.

[size=18]End of driveshaft rebuild. Wink