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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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 Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:11 pm |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:16 pm |
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Proper position of END GAPS. Many pistons have a ARROW to indicate the FRONT of a piston. The numbers & letters on the ROD indicates FRONT too.
Piston #1, I am gonna position the OIL RING SPACER directly over the FRONT of the wrist pin.
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:39 am; edited 4 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:19 pm |
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I am gonna SPIRAL-IN the lower oil ring, bout 45* off-set, in a CLOCK-WISE fashion.
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:40 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:22 pm |
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TOP...oil ring, 45* off-set, but SPIRAL-IN COUNTER CLOCK-WISE.
SPACE...the top & second ring 180* from each other over the DEEPEST,
SKIRT AREA!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:40 am; edited 3 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:25 pm |
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BETTER...to support the piston (lightly) and use the RIGHT EXPANSION TOOL!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:41 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:30 pm |
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NOTE...the piston rod OILING HOLE is ALIGNED!
This hole will OIL...the LOAD-SIDE of the piston & it's cylinder, wall area!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:42 am; edited 3 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:35 pm |
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Place the ROD CAPS like so...PRE-LUBE the bearing like so...
This will prevent the BEARING from popping-out when you drive-in the pistons.
NO.......not like that! 
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:43 am; edited 3 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:38 pm |
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Marked the rear of piston #1 to show NO GAPS are exposed to use this TYPE of RING COMPRESSOR!
WD-40 the rings, the piston and the cylinder wall and the compressor so
the INSTALL will have a SLICK SURFACE.
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:43 am; edited 3 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:05 am |
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A small amount will work just fine! In the old days, I'd drip them into
engine oil.  That is just creating a HUGE, OIL MESS, that will need removed, later so you don't BLOW HEAD GASKETS!
This type of ring compressor is marked..."BOTTOM"!
That compressor RING... needs to be FLUSH, all the way around!
Note the SILVER ARROWS!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:44 am; edited 3 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:07 am |
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As you compress the rings...OBSERVE thru the opening that:
A. there was no BINDING!
B. the piston is TRUE in the bore & compressor ring.
C. the rings appear to have closed COMPLETELY!
D. the compressor ring is TOUCHING the block...all the way around!
Sometimes...all it takes is a SERIOUS PUSH, but a LIGHT TAPPING maybe
required if the compressor tool is a lil' too tight.
If it FEELS you just ran-into something SOLID... Remove & re-set the compressor tool again!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:45 am; edited 3 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:23 am |
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#1 & #4 crank journals should be at the BOTTOM of the cranks throw!
That would be #1 at BDC! (BOTTOM DEAD CENTER!)
We DO NOT WANT...the rod to come into contact with ANYTHING as we drive them in! USE GRAVITY!
Now...FLIP the block over. The ROD BOLT CAPS...helped it to GUIDE the rod,
right over the journal, and NO METAL-TO-METAL CONTACT HAPPENED! 
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:46 am; edited 5 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:28 am |
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You know the deal... one drop of oil on the threads and a lil'
that is gonna be UNDER the nut so TORQUING NUMBERS will be ACCURATE!
Just SNUG-EM' down for now....EQUALLY!
BECAUSE...you MARKED each cap with it's position number, and you DOUBLED CHECKED the LOCKING LIPS (of the rod bearings) are on the SAME SIDE,
you PUT-IT-BACK-TOGETHER-PROPERLY!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:47 am; edited 4 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:31 am |
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ROTATE...the crank a few times. You should FEEL...NO BINDING!
Leave journals #2 & #3 at the BOTTOM of their stroke...and install #2 & #3!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:47 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 2:04 pm |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:03 pm |
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Use your 1/2" ratchet and rotate the crank a few times. It SHOULD feel smooth & CONSISTANT as you rotate it. If you feel a TIGHT SPOT...
maybe you put a CAP-ON BACKWARDS?! 
Check "SIDE CLEARANCE" .0039" to .0098" limit .016"
WE DO NOT WANT..... ANY OIL/LUBE LEFT-BEHIND on
*ANY* GASKET SURFACE  THIS *WILL* CREATE A LEAK
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:48 am; edited 6 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:06 pm |
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Driving-in new dowel bushings to align the head.....X2
The LH "Silent Shaft" has this front bearing, that won't be used again. The GOLD, grade 7 is just a lil' to long. SHIM IT...with TWO, 6mm LOCK WASHERS to make it shorter...or cut-it off!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:49 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:06 pm |
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If you are running a BSEK.....some have said thet were "short of a bolt to hold-down the t-chain guides."
Not EXACTLY true.......but special bolt "A" and it's lock washer is REMOVED to run a BSEK.
OK....install the lil' "shelf".
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:51 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:21 pm |
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With #1 piston at TDC (top dead center) NOTE...the duel keyways are
at 3 o'clock....and the CAMSHAFT TIMING MARK is ONE TOOTH BELOW IT
The crank sprocket should slide-on very easily! Remove it....now.
With the t-chain and BOTH sprokets ALIGNED with the "PLATED LINKS"
slide it on to the CRANK as a ASSEMBLY!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:51 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:30 pm |
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YOU CAN......install the LEFT & RIGHT CHAIN GUIDES FIRST....(the way I do it)
of AFTER you install the T-chain.
You don't NEED a TORQUE WRENCH......but you'd better have a lil' COMMON SENSE!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:52 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:42 pm |
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PRIMING....your OIL PUMP! You *WILL* be sorry if you don't do it!
DO NOT USE ENGINE OIL! IT WILL RUN-AWAY FROM THE GEARS!
MUCH MORE INFO.........here: https://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=913
"I use Vasoline......I use White Lithium...." Why? Can't you AFFORD
$8 for Clevite 77 BEARING GUARD? Enough to build SEVERAL engines...
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:53 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:01 pm |
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KNOW.....your SMALL PARTS and what they do for you!
Some guys have LOST these parts...not even KNOWING they were there!
A semi-tight PINCH-FIT they are. Without that *KEYWAY*...... you ain't making OIL PRESSURE! DUH!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:54 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:11 pm |
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TEST IT...the DRIVE SPROCKET should slide-on very easily.
But...keep your EYES on that keyway! It COULD fall-out! 
The gear can go-on in either direction! Place it so the TEETH are closer to the oil pump housing!! VERY IMPORTANT!!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:49 pm; edited 4 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:23 pm |
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DETAILS.....ATTENTION TO DETAIL! There is PLENTY you should know!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:22 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:27 pm |
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You get the QUALITY of parts you pay for! Most of you weren't even born, yet when THIS was of issue.
CAUTION! If this ROLL PIN is NOT at the proper DEPTH......
Place the new cam dowel pin .280".......toward the cam.
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:26 pm; edited 8 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5758
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 11:48 pm |
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The FSM TORQUE is: 50 fricking, ft./lbs! Guys would use BLUE Loctite
case they can't handle that. I DO NOT RECOMMEND you use Loctite! Taking it apart again would be a royal PITA!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:28 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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