AUTO SEAT BELTS

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

"I cleaned my "A" pillar switch and my auto seat belts came-back to life, therefore that is where I would look toward on the passanger side belt if that side fails."

ANY ELECTRICAL SWITCH...when cleaned of contamination, would require LESS currant to pass-along that currant...when IN FACT, it was NOT getting *ALL* the currant in the first place due to a BAD/WEAK FUSIBLE LINK...or a sorry-assed BODY, MAIN GROUND!

Your auto seat belts are designed to save your life, therefore it is WELL BUILT! Yes...it does develope some problems, but I'll address this as we move forward.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

Is this fusible link 100% blown? No it's not! But it IS restricking FULL CURRANT!
Remember...you have 2 RED links that are involved with auto seat belts.

"Which fusible links & what colors are involved?"

As stated in the FSM diagram: #1 & #3...both RED (also noted on the box itself) Rolling Eyes

#1 being the front one...followed by 2 thru 4.
#1 R= RED
#2 Br = BROWN
#3 R= RED
#4 G= GREEN

More DETAILED info on POSITIVE-SIDE here:
https://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1180

NEVERRRR UP-SIZE THE LINKS!! Evil or Very Mad

The fusible links...and the box CONTACTS are KNOWN to be corroded and are NOW RESTRICKING CURRANT FLOW!

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

A FULL BODY GROUND....comes from ONE POINT ONLY!
Ground #11! Yes...we are gonna pull GROUNDS from several different places...but it's *ALL* DRAWN FROM THE MAIN BODY GROUND! Rolling Eyes

This ground cable was UP-SIZED in late 88 Starquest from a 4 gauge to a 3 gauge! Rolling Eyes

The FSM diagram states the grounds involved are:
Ground #11 = BODY Ground (apron)
Ground #2 = Engine block

Ground #7 = Sorry, no pic at this time, but it's a phillip screw under the drivers seat...next to the ETACS. (crap get's spilled on it Rolling Eyes

)
Ground #1 = Next to your air filter can, on apron.

However...the 89 Starion Vol 2 states:
Ground #8 is involved. The good news is...it is WELL PROTECTED from contamination! Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

OK, today I tested the "door lock switch",C-02, at the harness connector, B-13, 3 pin, Triangle shaped,
...in the BOTTOM, LEFTSIDE opening. (door panel removed)

Black = ground supply to switch (comes from ground #1)
Red = "release switch" (we call it "B" pillar switch) door open
Green = "fasten switch" (we call it "A" pillar switch) door closed

These are the SMALL MALE SPADES. To make a lil' jumper wire, all you need is two small FEMALE SPADE CONNECTORS (like used on narrow, speaker terminal) and about 4" of 18 gauge wire. This would BY-PASS the switch.

Key "ON"....jump BLACK to GREEN or BLACK to RED. If you saw NO REACTION (of the auto belt) AT ALL...that means the FAULT WAS NOT THE SWITCH! The fault is elsewhere!

That switch.... is WELL PROTECTED with a RUBBER BOOT OVER IT and is a royal PITA to remove...WHAT IS NOT TYPICALLY BROKEN or CONTAMINATED!

Another means of testing that switch...use a ohm meter test (a continuity test) and use a screwdriver to FLIP the lacth to a closed position. Wink