OIL (Pan, Filter Adapter, Sending Unit)

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

Two differant ways to approach this problem. The STEEL ADAPTER is the easy way to go.

A STEEL ADAPTER converts 1/8"-28 to 1/8"-27 (common sender pitch)

Was it American, or British, or Whitworth or WHATEVER? Rolling Eyes

WHOM CARES?!

What size *WAS* it, really? Don't really matter...cause, if you
are going AFTERMARKET, SENDERS & SENSORS, you might
need-to RE-TAP-IT! Cool

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Oil temperture thermostat.

Top view at room temp.

Bottom view at 215*.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The pic was TAKEN at 250* to fully extend the thermostat. But it seals the opening at 215*
(begins to cool, engine oil)

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The retaining NUT/SHAFT is 30mm.

There is also a 14mm nut that keeps the adapter aligned.

Note the adapter has TWO O-RINGS. MF520015 & MF520588.
Theses O-rings are also supplied in Fel-pro's "conversation set". (lower end gasket kit) CS-8788-1 $77 retail $39 net.

Don't worry, you'll need the rest of the gaskets in the kit someday. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The new Carquest/Standard Ignition PS-192 (on the left) will not screw in far enough... unless you chase the threads deeper.

Mitsu replacement:MD092660 $27.47 OBSOLETE! Rolling Eyes

Word is: Borg Warner makes a, oil sending unit, THAT WORKS, FINE! Cool

(tapping maybe required, however)

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

You can chase the hole deeper with a 1/8" x27 npt,
pipe-tap to get the aftermarket sender to the proper depth.

Don't worry...it's not a metric hole! Laughing

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The hole in this oil sending unit was nearly completely plugged.
Remember, this sender is mounted UP-SIDE-DOWN.

Which means CRUDE can collect at the opening and go INSIDE THE SENDER.
A little action with some CARB CLEANER might just CHANGE THE REFLECTED oil pressure. Wink

SLUGE...is what is inside the SENDER! Mad

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

A lil' TRICK, the Nissan guys taught me. Cool

Factory size of this hole is about .050 or a #54 drill.

I open this one up to a #47 drill or .075, this makes the gauge react much faster,
and cleans all the crap out of the hole.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Set the drill bit to lenght so you don't damage the sender.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Oil temp sender install. "Where do you get that bung?" Walk into any industrial hose shop and ask for a STEEL, 1/8" NPT PIPE UNION. Now you have TWO. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The oil return line from the oil seperator is nearly on the bottom of the pan.
The hose that attachs this line to the seperator MUST BE OIL RESISTANT...
so use transmission line hose. 5/16" Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Your oil seperator may become plugged over the years.
Soak it in a can of cleaning solvent and blow dry thru the ports.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

WRONG ADAPTERS, for Starquest!

This "Sunpro" adapter set is sold by Auto Zone. p/n CP7573.

It has 5 adapters in it and sells for about $7.
As you can see the front, of the package, says "Metric Adapter Kit".

However, only 4 of the 5 are METRIC ADAPTERS.
The back of the package list what adapters the kit contains.

The one you WOULD be using will be: "1/8-28 BSP to 1/8" NPT". So forget the word "METRIC"...cause it ain't. Rolling Eyes

Psst. BRASS adapters are NOTORIOUS, to snap-off!! Shocked

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

DO NOT USE THESE!

Look at the first two adapters. One is M10 x 1.0 to 1/8" NPT
and the other is 1/8 BSP to 1/8" NPT.
The 2.6 engine uses TAPPERD PIPE PLUGS...that is a given.

Do you see ANY TAPPERD THREADS IN THIS PIC? "BSP" threads are NOT TAPPERD!
Does it look like the METRIC ONE NEXT TO IT?
You bet your turbo!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

We have...done this MANY TIMES,
without removing the engine!

This pipe-plug will need to be removed.
It's 5mm ALLAN and you'll want to use a GOOD, HARDEND SOCKET DRIVE with a BREAKER-BAR.

It will FEEL like it is about to strip because this sucker is in there TIGHT.

If you get stupid and strip it...GAME OVER!

I've had a few require, HEAT TO THE BLOCK (this opens up the block threads slightly) to get them to release! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Propane torchs will work here too.

REMEMBER...you want the BLOCK THREADS HOT...NOT BOTH THREADS.

So spare the plug (as much as you can) the heat. Work AROUND the plug. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The "Sunpro" adapter, that SEEMS to fit=
a BROKEN ADAPTER!

If you are going to use this adapter... Rolling Eyes

no tapping is necessary. Rolling Eyes

However this is not a tapperd PIPE THREAD, it's 1/8 BSP...not 1/8 NPT. Will it work? They say it will. Would "I" use it? Rolling Eyes

Not on your life Exclamation

In the first place it will only go in a few threads before it starts to lock-up. And, secondly it's solid brass, which means you could snap-it-off in the block very easily. PASS!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This is the way I do it. I'll show you how. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

If you use SOME FORM OF LUBE the debris will STAY-PUT...so you can vacuum it out. Wink

Yes you can do this with the engine still in the car. I have done it MANY TIMES. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

If you lube the tap, most of the debris will come out with the tap.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Obviously, we don't want this getting into the oil supply.

The oil supply line is nearly an INCH AWAY. So it won't move the inch,
all by itself.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Just take vacuum cleaner and suck out the remaining debris.

Now....as a CYA...place a drip pan under your car.
Have an assistant fire the engine (just for few seconds)
while you cover the threads with a rag.

This will FORCE any remaining debris from the hole.

You can always VERIFY with a "Q-tip" that the threads are CLEAN. Wink