KYBs FRONT STRUTS, BRAKES, BEARINGS, HUBS

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

You can borrow a spring compressor from Auto Zone. There are several differant types. You need to compress the spring from both sides, 180 degress apart. Be careful and pay attention. This can be dangerous.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Position spring compressor like so.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note how BOTTOM tip of spring seats. Make a mark that is EASY to see.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Mark the UPPER spring, dust boot and upper spring seat.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Only compress the spring far enough to take the tension off. The more you compress the spring, the more dangerous it becomes. There is no need to even move the spring and compressor once you have removed the strut. Just leave it on the floor and don't allow ANYBODY to touch it.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove the cap and the strut nut CAREFULLY. A 1/2 impact gun will zap the nut right off. If you don't have access to an impact a 1/2 rachet will work but you'll probably need another pair of hands to hold the top spring seat. Remember the "D" shape? This will keep the shaft from turning. Now be careful here........cause this is a point where the coil spring might want to ROTATE and that spells DANGER.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note the "D" shape.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Correct order of parts.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Continued correct order of parts.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Insert/cartridge retaining nut.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

A vise comes in handy to hold the housing. Don't CRUSH IT. Just HOLD IT. 2 pipe wrenches can replace the vise.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Have a drain pan ready. When you remove the nut, shock oil will pour out.
Rinse out the housing, stand erect and pour 30 cc of ATF into the housing. Install new cartridge and tighten nut. Follow cartridge makers directions.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Factory cartridge and retaining nut removed.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Replacing the INSULATOR with MB175710 net $42.52 is a really good idea when you replace the inserts/shocks. Note the bearing and grease.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

OK.......let's drive in some new races into the hub and hand-pack the bearings. Select a driver that is JUST SMALLER than the race. Auto Zone loans this tool. Or you can buy one for about $32. It comes with several drivers that fit most bearings and seals.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

CHECK THE HUB FOR BOOGERS FIRST! You may have given it one when you removed the race. Remove boogers with Crocus cloth or sandpaper.
Use the TAPPERD END to drive in a race with a heavy hammer. Do this on a firm surface like concrete. Drive in the race STRAIGHT. The hub will BOUNCE off the floor when the race is seated. Drive in all races at the same time.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Smear all 4 races with grease as pictured.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Place a small amount of grease in your left palm. Hold the larger end of the bearing downward in your right hand. Working from the edge of the pile of grease, force the grease up THRU THE ROLLERS till it pops out the top. Rotate the bearing until all rollers have grease protruding thru them. Do all 4 bearings at once, dropping BOTH INNERS in place in the hub first, remove gloves, hammer in new seal, install on car, then install the outers and the retaining hardware.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Oil and grease seals have a small coil spring that applies tension to the seal surface. Where ever the seal goes, you could pop this spring out upon installation because you generally HAMMER them into place. So apply grease to the backside to keep the spring in place while you drive it in.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Like so.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Select a driver that is JUST SMALLER than the seal O.D. and use the FLAT SIDE of the driver to drive in the seal on a hard surface.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Do your best to keep the seal straight and true as you begin to drive it in so you don't DISTORT the new seal. Wipe a film of grease on the SEALING SURFACE of the seal so the seal is lubed. Clean old grease off the spindel and wipe with new grease. Place hub on spindel, followed by outter bearing and retaining hardware. Over tighten the nut to seat the bearings and then back-off nut. Rotate the hub as you do this to get a FEEL for how tight it should be. DO NOT PRELOAD THE BEARINGS.