HEADLIGHT SWITCH REPAIR

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

"My HLs pop-up but don't illuminate."
STOP!
To the right of your cluster...which position is the switch that illustrates
a headlamp?
https://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1045

The PRIMARY FUNCTION of a HL switch & Hazard switch is to send a GROUND to several RELAYS...at the same time.

Rookies, want it placed on a DEFECTIVE RELAY... Rolling Eyes

If you can not send a CLEAN GROUND SIGNAL to a RELAY...it ain't gonna CLOSE! (engage)

How does this help you? Replacing a GOOD RELAY is a waste of time, effort & $$.

A new, HL SWITCH...bout $150+ that will ALSO have a SHORT SHELF LIFE.

We "retire" aircraft in Tucson Arizona for a damn good reason...then use them again in a few hours of "PRE-FLIGHT." Wink

I guess I should add some text to this topic because I came across a situation where I had to go back-into a HL switch twice. Embarassed

"I got no BRAKE LIGHTS! Only the spoiler light!"

Rolling Eyes

Rebuild the "Hazard" switch!
(been there, done that Rolling Eyes

)

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Turn the light recepticle to the left and remove it from the board.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Snip the zip tie.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Using a bent pic tool.......carefully bend all 5 tabs back just far enough to remove the board. (there's a tab mid-way)

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

No, they won't be all black and carbon tracked like the P/W switches. They don't carry that many amps. But the copper is surface corroded just enough to make the headlights not perform like they should.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Here's the problem with the switches: The grease used when this switch was assembled drys up and performs more like GLUE than grease.

Because this grease is also on the SPRINGS.....which happen to LOAD the two electrical contacts together....the springs won't offer the load they should. Remove the 3 switch contacts and CLEAN ALL OF THE SPRINGS of ALL the old grease.

A sticky spring is NOT GOOD. Use terminal cleaner, degreaser, Acetone or Naptha to remove ALL the old grease from ALL the parts!! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note spring on the left so you don't loose it.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Using Q-tips, get rid of ALL the old grease. I'm going to use "TERMINAL GREASE" as a replacement.

But after running some test on "TERMINAL GREASE" I won't be using it again. Seems that about 95-100* it wants to turn into a LIQUID. You bet your turbo it gets that hot in the hood of your dash. Rolling Eyes

Use your favorite DIELECTRIC GREASE!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Again, paper towel and even Formula 409 will remove the old grease.

However...this will NOT LEAVE-BEHIND a "film"!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

2000 grit is pretty fine...so you can use 1000 or 600 or 400.

But make ALL the copper contacts shine like a new penny.

AND DO NOT TOUCH THEM WITH YOUR GREASY FINGERS AFTER YOU ARE DONE! Laughing

You'll contaminate them! Mad

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remember to DEGREASE THEM FIRST!

Just a couple of circles...then eyeball them...are they SPOTLESS? Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

For an electrical connection...this board is FILTHY!

Again, 2000 is pretty fine, so you can use 1000 or 600 or 400 grit. When copper is CLEAN, it's very shinney! Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

THIS GREASE... Rolling Eyes

became a problem, a year later! Mad

As it turns out...terminal grease begins to liquidfy at higher temps.

Being that it can get pretty hot in the instrument hood, you should use DIELECTRIC grease! Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

Now..there are MANY electrical topics in this manual.

If you've FAILED to address "Batt. Negs........" & "Batt. Positive......." FIRST, rebuilding this switch MIGHT NOT BE NECESSARY! Rolling Eyes

You CAN NOT pass a CLEAN GROUND......if it isn't being DELIVERD in the first place. Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

Handy to have them....but it doesn't go into enough DETAIL about the KNOWN failures as the S.O.S. does.

Remember.... POSITIVE currant flow begins at the battery and it must pass-threw the fusible link box (and it's notorious male spades) and connector A-33/A-34.... FIRST!

But it ALSO requires a SOLID GROUND CABLE and a SOLID GROUND CONNECTION at Ground #11 (just below your battery) to pass-along SEVERAL GROUND SIGNALS....that the headlight switch does!

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5758 Location: Albuquerque, NM

Ahhhhh, you wanna re-write the manual? Rolling Eyes

Those parts are SO EASY to FUBAR! This will take some time to bring more pics forward. Total 8 pics.

Roll the hood AWAY from the windshield. Get out of the car, now LOOK at the harness connectors threw the windshield....AND HOW THEY LAY!! Rolling Eyes

Yep, you'll wish the windshield wasn't there. Rolling Eyes

USE BOTH HANDS TO SEPERATE THE CONNECTORS AND DO NOT BE RUFF WITH THEM!!

You'd BETTER.......rebuild the other switch too! WHY? Rolling Eyes

Cause the hazard switch is known to be the REASON you have lost BRAKE LIGHTS!

Now, take it to a CLEAN BENCH AREA and proceed. Wink

I have seen MANY of these parts all torn-ta-hell from wrecklessness!
DO NOT.....use the SCREWS to DRAW-DOWN the hood! It's weight is enough unless a CONNECTOR is binding it!!